Where to Eat in New York - Robert W. Dana - 1948
Three Crowns Restaurant
12 East 54th Street
This Swedish restaurant is operated by John Perrson and Bror Munson, who operated the restaurant in the Swedish Pavilion at the World’s Fair. It has a beautiful dining room and bar, not too large, but nicely proportioned.
They have a wonderful smorgasbord selection and many famous Swedish dishes all year round, but one time of the year that means more to them than almost any other is November 10, Martin Luther’s birthday. Martingras is a signal for a goose feast in a grand manner.
An essential for the feast is svart soppa (black soup), which is made with Burgundy wine and contains a filling of prunes, diced apples, and goose neck. Accompanying the browned goose is red cabbage, which is prepared in a bittersweet sauce, and a little boiled potatoes with a sparkling parsley.
The goose dinner usually closes with hot Swedish apple pie with a distinctive vanilla sauce. If you happen to be in the Three Crowns on this feast day, go easy on the smorgasbord beforehand. I know it’s hard to overlook the liver, smoked salmon, sardines, herrings, and salads, but you’ll want to be able to enjoy that wonderful goose.
Any other day make a meal of the smorgasbord and you’ll be satisfied.
Open Daily. Table d’hote luncheon averages $1.75. Table & hote dinner averages $3. Air-conditioned.