|Gage and Tollner's had
its beginning when Charles M. Gage opened an eating house at 303 Fulton
Street Brooklyn, in 1879. He was joined by Eugene Tollner in 1880
and the business became known as Gage and Tollner's in 1882. The restaurant
was moved to 372-374 Fulton Street in 1892.
Tips on Tables -By Robert W. Dana - August 8, 1956
Gas Lights Recall the 80's
Young Tom Dewey, one of the Dewey Brothers, who are carrying on the
fine tradition of Gage and Tollner's, Brooklyn's famed 1879 restaurant
at 372 Fulton St., explained why the gas lights weren't turned on
at this time of the year.
"The natural gas gives more warmth than light and disturbs the
he said. "But we'll have them on again once turtle-soup weather
That means cold weather, about November, when they buy their own live
turtles and make their own hearty soup in a three-day operation. As
for the gas lights, they were turned on for a two-weeks period on
the restaurant's 75th anniversary a few years ago, and such was the
response that during the winter, folks can dine by lamplight Mondays
A Strange Intrusion.
The house in which Gage and Tollner's operates was once a private
home. Strange is its portice, jutting out on busy Fulton St., a block
from the new and modern Civic Center. But it doesn't seem so strange
when you see the inside, an unspoiled, and elegant specimen of the
19th century, with its long room, heavily mirrored walls and sturdy
mahogany tables. And while the ancient leaded-glass bookcase that
serves as a wine cabinet at the entrance wasn't intended for such
service, it is a proper adornment.
Tom and Ed Dewey respect the tradition of their restaurant by remaining
closed Sundays and holidays, leaving these for families in the home.
But all other times they are open for lunch and seafood and meat at
a la carte prices. On the seafood side, the restaurant has received
four successive Holiday awards.
Gage and Tollner's menu is in the form of a book. A casual glance
impresses one with the variety of preparations of clams, lobsters,
shrimp, crabmeat and oysters (when these are in season).
Belly Broil a Gem.
I'm told the belly broil, using only the, belly of the soft clam,
is a gem, of a dish !or $1.35. I say try the deviled crab for $1.85.
"Uniformity and the holding to tradition, is sometimes hard to
achieve," said Mr. Dewey. "For a time we used sterilized
crab shells, or our deviled crab until they were hard to get. The
aluminum ones we use now serve the same purpose, but they don't have
quite the same eye appeal.
Steaks, chops, chickens, eggs, omelets, Welsh-rarebits and salads
are all a part of the story . of Gage and Tollner's. So is headwaiter
Leon Gaskill, who has served there 51 years, and my waiter, Dave,
who has been there 32 years and has added Bloody Mary and screwball
to his knowledge of drinks. The Dolphin Bar, at the left as you enter,
is big enough for four skinny men. It's a bright newcomer.